ABOUT THE METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION

One of the variations of the method for designing shoulder garments was patented in 2015.
The method is innovative because it allows the development of garment design in a new way, see image 1.

Image 1
These garments, as constructed and cut, are sewn without alterations.

The method is based on very precise body measurements.

The head of the workshop has created a new, practical work experience-based and proven, universal method for the construction of individual and industrial patterns for women’s and men’s garments, developed and refined taking into account the conditions for digitisation:

  • For customization of mass production
  • Digitisation of individual orders

A programmed method would ensure high quality:
B2B – business to business – services for other bussinesses, in this case – for the clothing manufacturing industry.
B2C – business to client – services for the client – individual and corporate clients

The method consists of three main chapters. It is:

  1. Bases
  2. Faundation patterns
  3. Modeling

The main value of the method is the basis developed in it – the precise layout of the three-dimensional body in the two-dimensional plane – construction, that has no analogues in the world. It is:

  1. The shoulder clothes or the spread of the upper part of the torso in a plane;
  2. The sleeve or spread of the hand in a plane;
  3. The skirt or spread of the lower part of the torso in a plane;
  4. The pants or spread of the lower part of the torso and the legs in a plane;
  5. The collar or spread of the neck in a plane;
  6. The hood or the head and the neck spread in a plane;
  7. The hat or partial spreading of the head in a plane

Detailed rules have been developed in the method, which must be followed when combining the bases in the faundation patterns of combined cuts, such as dress, kimono, raglan, bodysuit, jumpsuit, cape. 

Methods the special novelty is the derivation of the cuts of men’s clothing – jackets, vests, shirts, tailcoats, business dresses and coats – from bases that take into account all the peculiarities of human height. 

In the end, the basic conditions of technical modeling are given, as a guarantee of not damaging the exact base during the modeling process, 

The method, programmed into one of the newly developed computer systems or improved existing ones, would enable the clothing industry to:

  1. With the help of advanced and perfected technical clothing design, make significant changes in the clothing industry towards a more ecologicaly responsible use of textile resorces in clothing production, because quality clothing is not thrown into the trash immediately after the first wear;
  2. Substantially improve the construction of mass production garments, constructing each size from the beginning. This is especially important for sizes L, XL, XXL;
  3. Customization of mass production;
  4. Effectively improve corporate customer service;
  5. To individual, self-sewing clothing manufacturers, to supply precisely individual patterns of various styles;
  6. For a tenfold saving of working time.

So far, the first sample is made in one size and multiplied by sizes using grading methods which are incomplete and do not give a quality result (see image 2).

1) Grading does not increase the forearm seam which gives volume to the breasts – the sloping folds from nipple up and down indicate this..
2) Wrong basic pattern of a dress – the balance is not adjusted – back too long and front – too short.

1) Current male jacket designs do not take into account the fact that all sexes have a larger or smaller frontal shoulder seam, the size of which is determined by the inclination of the sternum towards the mid-front vertical (see middle illustration in Figure 2, row 1). The jacket therefore stands back from the body at the point of the lapel.
2) The jacket design does not take into account the special allowance for the comfort of the buttoning area – the flap creates sloping folds in all directions.

1) Grading does not increase the forearm seam, which gives volume to the chest.
2) In the skirt part, the current standard patterns do not take into account the peculiarity of wide-hipped bodies – larger thighs.
3) Arm is too narrow because the specific arm circumference is larger than the standard arm circumference of the design + incorrectly distributed shoulder support as indicated by horizontal folds in the armpit of the sleeve.

Typical errors for large sizes of mass production:
1) The dress is not balanced in the side seam;
2) The breast seam is not increased according to the size;
3) The front is not eztended due to the increase in breast size.

image 2
The picture shows the defective clothes of current mass production, for which the primary defect is caused by the opening of the front shoulder seam that does not match the size, which does not increase or increases too little during grading. For the men’s jacket, this is not taken into account at all, because such a seam does not exist at all in the constructions of men’s jackets to date.

image 3
A visual explanation of why mass-produced garments are of poor quality.

This image is a copy of one of the offers for increasing the pattern sizes by grading. It shows that grading systems are not perfect, with the main error being in the opening of the seam.
1. As the size increases, the opening of the seam allowances must increase as the chest size and front length increase, as can be seen very clearly in the illustration (see middle picture). This grading shows that the seam has not increased at all. There are grading methods that increase the seam, but they are all insufficient.
2. As the size increases, the length of the front from the waist horizontal downwards should also increase.
3. There is no need to increase the length of the back as the size increases – it increases as the length of the body increases.
4., 5., 6. This is how the pattern of the shoulder garment changes, with each size being constructed from scratch – cut for different chest circumferences but with the same back length. There is no increase in back length, only in front length and opening of the seam.
7., 8., 9. As the size increases, the mammary glands enlarge, become heavier and pull the nipple lower with their weight – the distance between the tip of the breast and the waist level decreases, however, it is the same in the graded patterns for all sizes.
10. Also, building the base of the garment up to hip level, with the midline of the back as a vertical in all cases, does not give a good fit for certain body types. The mid-back line as a vertical is formed only in certain cases where the extended shoulder garment is made up of short shoulder garment and skirt bases, which are connected to the waist lines under special conditions.

The newly developed construction method takes into account all the characteristics of the individual body!
It ensures perfect fit of the garment to the body, even without any alterations made during fitting (see image 1).

In conclusion.
This method, programmed in a corresponding, newly modeled computer system, could not only improve the constructive and technological quality of Latvian clothing industry products, but also become an innovative and exportable product of high added value worldwide, which meets the tasks of the new Latvian government for the smart reindustrialization of the economy.